Thursday 19th September 2024. Talk Like a Pirate Day.

Brandenburg to Magdeburg – 92km.

I’ve so much to pack in today. I could do two blogs….thats frightening! The ride was fairly straight forward. It started very dull for the morning, so not so picturesque. I did pass some pleasant waterfront areas outside Brandenburg.

This was the only occasion I stopped for a photo. There were caravan and camping sites along the waters edge. Better with sunshine, I’m sure.

There were no towns of any size or note. Again, I was struggling to get a coffee anywhere enroute. Fortunately I had a stash of sandwich, banana and energy bars. I needed them when I was directed onto a forest path….

What path? This was a good bit. The bad bits were sandy where I couldn’t even ride. Not Eurovelo standards now! I was ‘shivering to my timbers’ by the time I got off this track.

I cycled into Magdeburg and was greeted by the river Elbe. Janice likes bridges so here are a couple…

Old and new bridges.

I headed into the Altstadt. It’s easy to aim for churches, knowing that they are usually in the centre.

I’ve no idea about the statue but it’s a Lutheran Church behind.
The Cathedral Dom was quite magnificent and it holds the tomb of Otto the First.

I nipped out of the centre to find my accommodation. I was greeted by the surliest receptionist (man) I have met. The place is OK but they have a system of coded doors which obviously causes problems for everyone. The surly man was brusque in his explanation of the code system, probably because he knew I would get it wrong (like everyone else). But instead of explaining carefully he ‘mansplained’ with attitude. I needed to use the code system twice, once to put my bike away and again to get into the room.

His explanation was at odds with the written explanation (in English) on the bike store door! Whatever I did I couldn’t get the door open. I was ‘scuppered’! So….when I went back to the man he was especially huffy because he had to get out of his chair to open the door for me. I thought he was going to make me ‘walk the plank’.

Anyway, I got sorted and even managed to get into the room at the second attempt.

I got myself showered and back out to see the city. Magdeburg was still an East German town till 1990. It is my last nights stop in the former East Germany. It’s a big city with a population of 237,000. I walked back to the centre along the Elbe, which was quite scenic.

This is Hubbrucke. An old bridge that gets plugged in the tourist sites. I’m not aware of any history to the bridge other than it is old and rusty but accessible by foot. I liked it. The river was flowing fast, bringing the water from the floods of the Czech Republic.

Now here’s a question….would you let this man design a building in your town or city?

He is Friedensreich Hundertwasser. The answer is emphatically NO!

But this is what he created….

It was actually quite a distinctive building. It works for me but I’m not sure Janice will let me paint the house this colour? There are several businesses on the ground floor, a courtyard and apartments above.

I mentioned yesterday that Magdeburg was the birthplace of the Classical composer Georg Philipp Telemann. I must admit that I had never heard of him until told by my cousin Matthew (who knows these things). He was born in 1681 and was one of the most prolific composers in history. He was compared favourably to Johann Sebastian Bach and he was godfather to Handel’s son. If he were a pirate he would be up there with Captain Pugwash!

I didn’t think I would find much in Magdeburg to commemorate him but this building was his Koncerthalle before it became an art museum.

….and this statue has him in the middle.

I’ve learned something today by researching Telemann and by listening to his music.

This is the Rathaus with a golden statue of the ‘Magdeburg Rider’ in front of it. A statue is believed to have been present on this spot since 1240 and it is thought to be King Otto the first. It was he who adopted the city as his court. It’s a bit of a job to keep up to speed with these German kings and kingdoms!

In short, what I saw of Magdeburg was good. It seems a very likeable city. Nice river frontage, good history, buildings and monuments with a pleasant mix of shopping streets beyond.

As I write, I have my feet up. Tomorrow could be the toughest ride of the rest of the trip. A similar distance to today but with hills…not like Czech hills but hills nevertheless. A good sleep is required ‘mateys’!

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